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To mine copper or cut cane, outsiders descended on scruffy, fast-growing towns like Mazabuka, hoping to make a new life and where the men went, a sex industry followed with local women touring bars, inns and truck stops to sell sex to newcomers. Zambia was one of the world's worst hit countries, part of an African "AIDS belt" that left millions dead, with 70, people dying a year in the southern African nation at the height of the epidemic in , according to UNAIDS data.
HIV prevalence along key transport routes was especially high, as men and women moved en masse seeking a better life. We had a lot of orphans, a lot of widows , a lot of widowers," said Kanyanda. Every day, you'd pass the graveyard and see people moaning, wailing - yet another funeral.
The roadside graveyard adjoins the hospital - a crowded field of makeshift memorials and formal headstones, trees arching over red-earth mounds that mark the many dead. Hand-scrawled signs point to an agony of lost babies: "beloved daughter Gladsy Mainza" aged two; nearby lies Tia Jonga, who died on Nov. In the mortuary, every day, two, three dead bodies," Stephen Shajanika, Mazabuka's District Health Commissioner, recalled in an interview. Now the people of Zambia have moved on from the worst and are learning to live with its aftermath, helped by a military-style campaign to spread information, test those most at risk, and prescribe drugs to keep AIDS at bay.
We want to find them. We want to test them. We will do our part and then we empower people who take it very seriously," said Kanyanda.
As the centre of the nation's sugar industry, Mazabuka squats on a busy road in land-locked Zambia, a land of transit criss-crossed by truckers from eight neighbouring countries.